I know that our Electric stovetop is connected to the 400v Three Phase circuit.

So even with 240v mains power the Stove is usually connected to a circuit with the highest available power.

But even the 240v plug in induction stovetops have plenty power for cooking.

My Arch install yesterday:

That’s a nice Kernel you have there, it would be a shame if something happened to it.

It somehow deleted the old kernel image from the boot partition but failed to write the new one (and I didn’t notice before rebooting).

I needed to rebuild the kernel via chroot from a live USB.

It does support it, you just have to add it to dnsmasq. I have it Setup under misc.dnsmasq_lines like so:

address=/proxy.example.com/192.0.0.100
local=/proxy.example.com/

Then I have my proxied service reachable under service.proxy.example.com

The Pi 4 is massively overpowered for a PiHole, but if you got one laying around doing nothing, go for it.

I have my PiHole running on a Pi Zero with a USB Ethernet adapter. The WebUi is a bit slow, but the actual DNS with unbound as a backend isn’t any slower than on a Pi 4.

With the same setup I had constant issues with Variable Refresh Rate, monitor sleep and actual sleep…

Nvidia on Linux did not want to work well for me

Thought so too, you compile the driver against the kernel. But I’m not sure about the exact mechanics.

I’ve always used the dmks Nvidia driver, so switching to the 580xx aur wasn’t a problem

I really gotta double check on my laptop, but I am using the nvidia-580xx-dmks aur package with the latest kernel (should be 6.18) without Problems.

But then again a lot of the “normal” HW acceleration is handled by the igpu there.

You are lucky then. If you play lots of multiplayer games you are bound to encounter one that doesn’t work.

Most modern Call of Duty and Battlefield games do not work for example.

According to areweanticheatyet.com only 40% of Games with Anti cheat work on Linux…

There is also Shizuku that might be utilized in der Future to install apps (Im just speculating here)

Well yes, but actually no.

On a more serious note, most things are available, some things are behind on updates unless you compile everything yourself (even when using the ports collection).

I haven’t used it as a desktop environment, I was just maintaining a FreeBSD server, so no idea on that end

Most VPN Providers block Port forwarding, so I’m guessing that would be the cause here.

I just removed the Glass plate, not really a big job in my case.

Almost all of the glue stayed on the Glass and the remaining glue was very easy to clean with Acetone.

Yes that was my idea, I already ordered a magnetic plate kit today and I can try this out first. Since the heater is an aluminum PCB directly glued to the glass I might just try to separate the glass from the PCB if the glass if sticking it on top doesn’t work out like I wanted

Luckily I already have a ABL setup, since I had to re-level the bed every 2 or 3 prints…

I might be “lucky” in the sense that the glass appears to already separate at the corners.

Does the magnetic plate warp much under high heat loads? Since I print a lot with PET(G) and sometimes ABS I thought this might be a problem.

If I leave the glass on I might not get to the Maximum temperature, but I ordered some moderately priced magnetic kit already, so I’ll just clip this on top and Test first.

Yes this is the first time this has happened, I printed roughly 2kg of abs on this printer already and I never had any problems with too much bed adhesion. But hey, this part didn’t warp a single mm ಠ_ಠ…

It might work, but you generally want to have a flat surface and it needs to stand up to extended periods of temps up to 110°C and I’m pretty sure this is borosilicate glass

But I also can’t get the glass shards off the printed parts, so this is pretty much a moot point

I’ve managed to get the rest of the sprint loose, sadly it was already damaged beneath.

Since it looks like the glass bee is already lifting by the corners from the heat bed I bet I can remove it pretty easily, but if the bare heater PCB (1.5mm thick) makes a good surface for a magnetic bed I don’t know…

That was my idea, as well, but the Glass is glued to the heater, though I have seen a video that shows its possible to remove the glass.

But then the thin aluminum heater seems so flexible, I am not sure if a flexible PEI sheet on top of that would work well…

To be fair the PEI kit I was looking at is a aluminium baseplate, silicone heater mat, magnetic base & the PEI sheet, so basically a complete replacement of the bed.

since the glass is glued to the heater I was looking at a complete replacement at first.